THE LAND OF GOLD
  REALITY  VERSUS  FICTION.

   BY   Hinton R. HELPER.    1855

CHAPTER V.
SAN FRANCISCO—CONTINUED.
Page 69.
     WE will now look into Clay street,  which intersects Montgomery,  and runs parallel with Commercial.  Next to Montgomery,  this is the most fashionable street in the city;  the large establishments  where retailers deal in ladies’ and gentlemen’s dress goods being situated upon it.  The side-walks are narrow,  and generally crowded to such an excess  as to render it  really difficult and tiresome  to travel them.  To the ladies,  shopping on this street  is especially annoying and tedious;  for they are designedly balked or hindered  in their course  by a  set of  well-dressed vagabonds,  who promenade the trestoir  from morning to night  for the sole purpose of  staring in their faces.
     The following little circumstance,  which occurred here about a year ago,  will show that,  however culpable it may be  in those who make a regular business of gazing intently in ladies’ faces,  the act is sometimes induced by a natural  and inoffensive regard for the opposite sex.

Page 70.
A very clever married lady,  whose notions and ideas of things  were somewhat akin  to those of  the Merry Wives of Windsor,  espied a gentleman  gazing very earnestly in her face,  when she turned to him,  notwithstanding  they were both on the street,  and asked,  “Why do you stare at me so hard,  sir?  Have I done you any injury? ”  “Oh!  no,  madam,”  replied he;  “I assure you  you have not harmed me in the least.  But pardon me;  I have been in the mines for the last two years,  and it has been so long  since I saw a lady,  that I must own  my admiration of you  has compelled me  to be somewhat rude in my scrutiny of your charms.”  The lady was satisfied with the complimentary explanation,  and since that time  has been more resigned to her fate,  and better contented to endure the steady stare of the public.
     The gambling-houses cannot be overlooked  in a true sketch of life  in San Francisco.  One of the largest  and most frequented of these,  called the Diana,  stands a few doors above us.  The building extends,  through the entire block,  from Clay to Commercial street,  and has a front  proportionate to its depth.  The doors,  which lead into it from either street,  are kept wide open  from nine in the morning  till twelve at night,  during which time  the hall or saloon  is generally filled to overflowing with lazy men,  of little principle,  whose chief employment  consists in devising some sinister plans  of procuring a livelihood  without work.

Page 71.
On one side is a bar,  attended by a lady,  assisted by three young white men and two negroes.  This is largely patronized by the occupants of the saloon— one-fifth of them drinking  because they have been lucky,  and the other four-fifths  drinking because they have been unlucky.  Around the walls  are suspended showy paintings and engravings,  some of them  of the size of life,  representing nude women  in every imaginable posture of obscenity and indecency.
     Seated around numerous tables,  covered with cloth or velvet,  and finished expressly for gambling purposes,  are some rare specimens of greedy speculators in the folly  of their fellow men.  The proprietor of the house  rents his tables to professional gamblers  at a stipulated sum per month,  with the condition that  he is to receive a certain per-centage on the net proceeds of their swindling operations.  Usually,  two gamblers form a co-partnership,  hire one table,  and station themselves opposite each other,  so that each  can understand every manśuvre and secret sign of the other;  and when a good opportunity for cheating or defrauding  presents itself to one of them,  the other is always prepared  to divert the attention of the audience  or of the interested party  from his partner’s motions.  Every possible variety of gaming  that can be accomplished by cards and dice  is practiced here;  and every false and dishonest trick is resorted to  (often  with more than anticipated success)  to fleece ignorant men of their purses.

Page 72.
Lying on the top of each table  is a pile of gold and silver coin,  denominated the bank,  the size and amount of which,  as a matter of course,  depend altogether  upon the wealth of the proprietors.  I have said  “the bank”  is composed of gold and silver coin;  it must be one or other,  or both of these metals  in some shape— whether in dust,  ingots,  bullion,  or coin;  for these constitute the sole recognized currency of the State,  there being no paper money  or bank-notes in circulation.
     At one of the tables  we observe two proprietors,  as before described.  One of them is a lank,  cadaverous fellow,  with a repulsive expression of low cunning,  full of hypocrisy and deceit,  taciturn in disposition,  unengaging in manners,  who was formerly  a Baptist preacher in Connecticut.  The other  has a vinous,  fat,  and jolly countenance,  is open-faced,  enjoys a joke,  is lively,  laughs at his partner for being so melancholy,  is affable and courteous to strangers,  talks a great deal,  as might be expected,  since,  before he came to California,  he was considered  one of the most promising young lawyers in Mississippi.
     The proprietors of another table  are two old gentlemen of  “three score years and ten,”  whose white hairs and wrinkled brows  would seem to belong to  a more honorable station in life  than that assigned them by destiny.

Page 73.
A third table  is used by a couple of Spaniards,  whose scowling brows and treacherous eyes  indicate that they are better qualified  for the transaction of infamous and atrocious deeds,  than for fair dealing or magnanimous behaviour.  A Jew and Jewess  have command of the fourth table;  the fifth  is under the direction and management of a  French gentleman and lady;  a young American girl and her paramour  have charge of the sixth;  while the seventh,  eighth,  ninth,  tenth,  and so on,  are presided over  by sundry sorts of wicked spirits,  unworthy of being named.  Octogenarians,  youthful and middle-aged men,  married and unmarried women,  boys and girls,  white and black,  brown and copper-colored,  the quarrelsome and the peaceable,  all associate together;  and,  at times,  as might be expected,  fight,  maim,  and kill each other  with the same indifference  with which people generally pursue their daily occupations.
     I neglected to mention before,  that,  in some conspicuous point  of the principal houses of this character,  there is generally erected  a stage or platform,  upon which  a company of musicians  perform at intervals  of a quarter of an hour.  This  they are employed to do  for the purpose of enticing unsuspecting strangers and passers-by.
     Like those engaged in the liquor traffic,  these gamblers are a public nuisance,  a burden upon society.  They do no sort of profitable manual or mental labor;  yet the community grants them a license  to abuse the public,  and to debase themselves.

Page 74.
Their occupation  being a discreditable and dishonorable one,  it robs them  of that degree of happiness and respectability  which naturally belongs to every industrious and upright man.  Like a deadly contagion,  they blast and destroy  all with whom  they come in contact.
     Thousands of these swindlers  live by their expertness  in gambling and tricks of legerdemain.  Dissipated,  reckless,  and restless,  they rove from place to place,  rarely acquiring decent habits  or becoming permanent citizens.  They are,  nevertheless,  great lovers and admirers of women;  and most of them  make it a special branch of their business  to cultivate a due share of female acquaintance.  But we will now bid adieu to the blacklegs,  and return again to the street,  merely stopping a minute or two,  as we pass out,  to listen to the enchanting strains of  “Katy Darling,”  or  “Lilly Dale,”  played by the brass band  in attendance.
     What is here called  the plaza,  or park,  which occupies one square between Washington,  Clay,  Kearney  and Brenham streets,  now lies before us;  but  as it is nothing  more nor less than  a cow-pen,  inclosed with unplaned plank,  we will say but little about it.  In the middle  is planted a tall liberty-poll,  near which  is erected a rude rostrum  for lynch-lawyers and noisy politicians.

Page 75.
If there is a tree,  or a bush,  or a shrub,  or a sprig of grass,  or any thing else  in or about it  that is green,  or that bears the slightest similitude to vegetation,  nobody has ever yet seen it;  and,  as a pleasure-ground,  it is used  only by the four-footed denizens of the city.  On the east side of this delectable public square  is the California Exchange,  before the steps of which  are stationed  from fifteen to twenty French peasants,  who pursue no business  save that of blacking boots.  Most of them  have acquired or adopted  this ornamental occupation  since they left La Belle France.
     A few doors above the Exchange  stands the City Hall,  which was formerly the Jenny Lind Theatre— a very neat stone structure,  but wholly unsuited for the purpose  to which it is now applied.  The parties who built it for a theatre  soon ascertained that  it was a bad speculation,  and became considerably involved in debt;  and,  to save themselves,  and make the best of a bad bargain,  they bribed a majority of the aldermen  to purchase it for a City Hall,  at several thousand dollars  above the original cost.
     In this way  a monstrous swindle  was perpetrated upon the community,  by fraudulently appropriating the public money  to the use and benefit  of private individuals.  But the fraud could not be remedied;  the city officers had been elected  as the representatives of the citizens,  whose rights and powers  had been vested in them,  and if they were so base  as to prove recreant to their trust,  the penalty had to be paid  by their constituents.

Page 76.
They consummated their corrupt bargain  for the theatre,  the properties were removed,  and,  after the expenditure of much time,  labor,  and money,  in making alterations and additions,  the building was converted into  what now stands before us— the City Hall of San Francisco.  The principals in this iniquitous transaction  enriched themselves and their accomplices  at the expense of the city treasury,  suffering nothing  except the denunciations and execrations  of an abused and outraged public.  This is a fair sample  of the disposition that is made  of the public funds  throughout the State.  Sheriffs,  treasurers,  and tax-collectors,  in the majority of cases,  are expected to decamp  with all the money in their hands,  or to embezzle a part of it;  and it has passed into a proverb,  that no honest man  can be elected  to a city,  county,  or state office  in California.
     Were we to remain  an hour or two in this vicinity,  we should probably see  a police officer  rolling  “a perpetual hymn to the Deity”  on a wheelbarrow— for that,  we believe,  is Poe’s euphemism for a woman.  Intoxication  is quite common among the ladies  of this particular section of San Francisco,  and the wheelbarrow,  or some other vehicle,  must be employed  to convey them to the station-house,  on account of the total failure  of their natural organs of locomotion.

Page 77.
     On the north side of the Plaza  are some of the best French  eating-houses in the State.  One of them, the Cafe du Commerce,  which,  translated into English,  means  Commercial Coffee-house,  is quite famous  for its choice gastronomy.  A better dinner can be procured here  than in an American house,  because the French  are better cooks,  cleaner in their culinary arrangements and preparations,  more polite and attentive to their guest,  and less accustomed to adulterating their provisions.  Dinner,  without wine,  costs two dollars for each person;  but  with it,  from three to five dollars,  according to quality and quantity consumed.  The stranger  cannot promise himself  any thing very sumptuous  or delicious in the way of eatables,  even in the first-class hotels.  He can get good wines and liquors,  prime cigars and tobacco,  and other accessory articles  of superior quality;  but the fare  at best is very indifferent.
     All the more substantial articles of food,  such as flour,  meal,  beef,  pork,  and butter,  are imported from Europe  or brought from the Atlantic States.  As these provisions are sent around by Cape Horn,  they must pass twice  through the tropics  before they arrive in San Francisco;  consequently,  most of them  become more or less sour,  musty,  or rancid,  which,  as we all know,  renders them  not only repugnant to the palate,  but also injurious to health.

Page 78.
But,  notwithstanding their transportation of  from seventeen to twenty thousand miles  upon the Atlantic and Pacific oceans,  old or fresh,  sound or unsound,  they must be sold,  served up,  cooked,  eaten. They cannot be wasted  or thrown away,  for that would be a losing business,  and people did not come to California  to lose money,  but to make it;  nor does it matter to them  whether they make it  by the sale of sweet flour  or by the vending of putrid meats.
     Sour flour  is sold at reduced prices  to the bakers,  who mix it with a larger quantity— say twice as much— of that which is sweet;  then  it is manufactured into bread,  delivered to the restaurants,  and devoured by the populace.  The flour  put up by the Gallego and Haxall mills,  of Richmond,  Virginia,  receives less damage  in its transit through the torrid zone  than any other— at least,  this is the reputation it enjoys in California,  those brands  being more highly prized  and more eagerly sought after  by bakers and consumers.  Next to the  Richmond,  the Fredericksburg and Georgetown flour  is most in demand.  How it is  that the flour  manufactured in the localities just named,  or in the vicinity of those localities,  retains its pure and primitive qualities  better and longer  than that produced at the North,  which,  with few exceptions,  spoils on the way,  I am unable to say— unless,  perhaps,  the latitude or climate  imparts to it  a healthier condition  or a preservative principle.

Page 79.
     Within the last one or two years,  considerable quantities of the cerealia  have been cultivated in the low lands and valleys of this State,  and a few flouring mills have been erected,  which are now in operation;  but the proprietors  mix their grists  so much with rye and barley,  that the flour is less marketable  than it would be  if it was ground out of genuine wheat.  To give character to their spurious compound,  they practice a double imposition,  by packing it  in empty Gallego and Haxall barrels,  which are clandestinely purchased  and kept in readiness for the purpose.  Thus they steal the reputation of the Virginia brands;  and,  by placing their falsely-labeled,  inferior flour  in the hands of their rascally agents,  they succeed  in effecting large sales of it  to those  who are not particular  in their examinations.  Though the fraud is easily detected  when the barrels are opened,  there is no chance of obtaining redress;  for,  in most cases,  these deceptions are carried out  in such an indirect or complicated way,  through factors and agents,  that it is too difficult a matter  to trace them to their source.  If,  however,  the guilty parties are discovered,  it amounts to nothing;  because here,  where the laws are so loosely  and imperfectly administered,  where all strong persons  do as they please,  and weak ones  must do as they can,  it costs more  to adjust a wrong  than it does to endure it.

Page 80.
     This system of cheating and adulteration  is carried out  in all ramifications of business;  and if a man  is not continually upon the alert,  he is sure to suffer the penalty of his negligence,  by having a worse thing  than he bargained for  thrust upon him,  and that,  too,  without redress.
     To return from our digression:  although the French  are somewhat more philosophic and scientific  in their preparation of viands,  we perceive no material difference  between their mode of living  and our own.  They eat more slowly,  are more graceful in their deportment at table,  and seem to enjoy their meals  as a feast,  rather than  to devour them  as a necessary repast.  Wine is their principal drink,  morning,  noon  and night;  and dinner  to them,  without it,  would be as insipid and unpalatable as breakfast  to our American grand-mothers  without coffee.  After the main part of the meal is finished,  it is customary with them  to sip  a small cup of strong coffee,  as a sort of accompaniment to their dessert.  This,  however,  they do not flavor with cream,  as we do,  but use Cognac,  burnt with sugar,  instead.  It is an unusual thing  for them to drink water  at any time,  except when mixed with wine.  I have the pleasure of the acquaintance  of a very worthy and estimable French gentleman,  who assured me that  he had taken but one drink of crude water  in four years,  “and then,”  he added,  “it make me sick.”

CHAPTER VI.
SAN FRANCISCO—CONCLUDED.
Page 81.
     AFTER a night’s lodging  in one of the human stables of San Francisco,  called here,  for politeness’ sake,  hotels,  we feel sufficiently refreshed  to continue our reconnoissance of  the city.  It will probably be as well for us  to retrace our steps  to the south side of the Plaza,  where we  re-enter Clay street,  and ascend the long,  high hill  that forms the western boundary of the city.  Before proceeding far,  we come to a pistol gallery,  on the left,  owned and conducted by one  Dr. Natchez,  a short,  thick-set  “son of thunder,”  who keeps on hand  the best assortment of dueling apparatus  that the world affords.  The proprietor’s real cognomen is,  I think,  Brown,  Smith  or Jones;  but every body calls him Natchez,  because  he came from the town of that name  in Mississippi.  He knows all about guns,  pistols,  and ammunition;  is an excellent shot— can hit a bull’s eye  or a man’s eye  every time he pulls a trigger;  and never fails to vindicate his honor  when it is assailed.

Page 82.
In the opinion of the duelist,  he is emphatically  an honor-saving man;  and in matters of personal difficulty  and dispute,  there is no one  so capable of giving suitable advice,  or so well prepared  to supply the necessary instruments of polite slaughter,  as Dr. Natchez.
     Among the fiery spirits  of this Western Metropolis,  the slightest affront,  even though it may be purely accidental,  is considered  a wound to dignity  curable only  by an application of Colt’s revolver  to the breast of the transgressor;  and  as Dr. Natchez  enjoys the reputation of  preparing the best remedies for wounded honor,  all those afflicted with the disorder  apply to him for relief.  Laying before him  their ailments and grievances,  he will at once say  the cause must be removed;  the offending party is waited upon  with a challenge,  which is accepted;  and the Doctor,  with commendable impartiality,  superintends the preparation of the weapons  for both parties.
     Passing on  towards the summit of the hill before us,  we soon arrive at an elevation  from which we have a clear and uninterrupted view of the whole city,  which contains,  it is supposed,  from forty-five  to fifty thousand inhabitants— about one-fifth  of the entire population of the State.  The original water-boundary of the city,  on the east,  was in the form of a crescent;  but,  the bay being shallow  in this particular part,  its shape has been changed,  by filling it in  with sand from the adjacent hills.

Page 83.
Owing to  the steep declivities of the original site of the city,  this encroachment was demanded  and effected by  those engaged in commercial pursuits,  who wanted level ground.  The land thus made,  being the most eligibly situated  and convenient to the wharves,  is far more valuable than  that of natural formation.  At first,  however, heavy losses were sustained,  in consequence of  the insecure foundations  of most of the buildings,  some of which  gave way entirely,  and had to be reconstructed.  Now,  however,  they understand it better,  and take special care  to pile and plank the foundation thoroughly  before the superstructure is erected.
     The process of filling up  these water-lots  was very irregular;  and,  as the work advanced,  several ponds of water,  which afterwards became stagnant,  were cut off  by these means  from the ocean.  In other places,  the tide receded  from the shallow parts of the bay,  and from the surface  thus left bare,  as well as  from the ponds last mentioned,  there arose  large quantities of highly offensive  and almost suffocating gas,  which obliterated all the painted signs in the immediate vicinity.  Strange to say,  the effluvium  exhaled from these foul ponds and marshy places  did not produce disease.  The wind blew it off  or counteracted its insalubrious effects.
     Viewing the city  from our present elevated position,  we look in vain for any verdure.

Page 84.
Indeed,  there is not a shade-tree  in San Francisco.  Nor,  if we search the outskirts of the city,  can we find  either trees,  coppice,  vegetation,  or any green thing whereon  to feast the eyes.  The earth all around us  is as sterile and unproductive  as a public highway.  We feel a void,  as though a friend were absent.  Nature  wears a repulsive  and haggard expression.  Oh!  how few there are  amongst us  who duly appreciate trees,  those noble earth-fingers  that point to heaven  and uplift the mind to God!  According to my judgment,  there is a greater combination of the beautiful and the useful  in a forest  oak or hickory,  than in all the gay exotics  which are so carefully reared by the florist.  I entertain no doubt that  a large,  luxuriant elm  would attract more attention in San Francisco  than a menagerie  or circus;  and it is a wonder that  some ingenious and speculative Yankee  has not,  ere this,  manufactured one  out of soft pine and dyed muslin  for public exhibition.  As an instance  of the feeling that exists here  on account of the lack of trees,  I may cite the exclamation of a distinguished gentleman  with whom I once had the honor to dine.  Said he,  (his wife at the time  being in North Carolina,)  “I long for the society of trees  almost as much  as I do for that of my wife;  and if she  and a big oak  could now be placed  side by side  within my reach,  I scarcely know  which of the two  I should embrace first! ”

Page 85.
     Many other  natural and artificial  deficiencies and peculiarities,  for which  San Francisco is famous,  might,  with propriety,  be considered  before we quit our high retreat;  but we will now conclude our panoramic sketch,  and descend  into the more densely settled  part of the city.


Land of Gold:  Chapters: VII - VIII. 

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